The BEST Kentucky Derby Mint Julep

It’s that time of year again! While the annual running of the Kentucky Derby always makes us think of mint juleps, has anybody ever wondered about their history or the “proper” way to make them? While The New American Bartender’s Guide by John J. Poister states that the first American mint julep originated in Williamsburg, Virginia, in the 17th Century, Bill Samuels, scion of Maker’s Mark in Loretto, Kentucky begs to differ.
“There is divided opinion on the origin and definition of a julep,” he once told Gourmet Magazine in an interview. “If you’re referring to the first time whiskey and mint were combined in these United States, then clearly you are talking about Virginia, and you are not far from George Washington, who liked to soften the heat of his rye whiskey with mint leaves or other grasses. But if you want to talk about when the julep acquired significance with bourbon whiskey, then you are talking Kentucky, where all of us know bourbon was born.”

The julep in Virginia “was not made with bourbon whiskey, but probably any old native whiskey. They didn’t make aged whiskey in Virginia; they made that white, nasty stuff. There was no character in the mint julep until it was made in Kentucky, with Kentucky bourbon. In Virginia, they don’t talk about the right mint either, I’ll bet. We don’t think mint is ready until it grows at least five inches out of the ground.”
The first step in making the world’s best mint julep, according to Samuels, is to make a mint stock. This is done by placing a handful of dime-size mint leaves in a mixing bowl, and then pouring in enough bourbon (preferably Maker’s Mark*) to cover. Soak for 15-minutes, then remove the leaves to a clean cloth and wrap.

Wring the cloth over the bowl, crushing the leaves, then dip the cloth into the bowl and wring again. Repeat several times, then reserve. Next, place a small saucepan of granulated sugar and water on the stove, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Heat until a syrup forms, then allow it to cool.
But the actual making of the julep itself is more than just throwing the ingredients together. It’s a ritual.
Into a large bowl, Mr. Samuels pours three and a half parts bourbon, one part syrup, and the mint stock in tiny amounts, to taste. This last bit is key. The ticket, says Samuels, is that after each addition of mint stock, “one leaves the room to clear the nose.” Got that? When you’re absolutely certain that the mixture is just where you want it, you half-fill one of those tankards (silver if you’ve got it) with crushed ice, drop in the specified five inch sprigs of mint, put in some more ice, and sprinkle the top with powdered sugar. You must wait for the tankard to frost, then pour in your julep mixture.

This clearly requires a rehearsal and a flow chart. But it will be worth it! Enjoy Derby Day, ya’ll!

*Editor’s note: Nowadays there are many small batch bourbons from which to choose. It’s fun to pick a few, and turn your pre-race party into a tasting event!